Archive for the ‘General’ Category

Howdy everyone, long time no post. I am back to do a little bit of Fall cleaning. First and foremost, I have changed the look and the name of the site. This blog is now called War Builder and is dedicated to all war gaming, not just Privateer Press games. I recently decided it was time to change up the direction of the blog to be more broad when I was overpowered by the Hive Mind. That’s right, I have started playing Tyranids. Oh, here they are now!

I have several other projects finished and underway that I will get posted here soon. Thanks to all of the people who read my blog. Let’s get this stuff underway.

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Moment of Zen

Posted: October 2, 2010 in General, Legion of Everblight

I made a Haiku
For you, so you would know that
Legion is awesome

So as a follow up experiment with paper mache, I have decided to make a trench system. Actually, its not so much a trench system as a modular fortification system. I say this because the walls only go up to a trooper waist (so line of sight can be drawn in both Warmachine and Warhammer). Anyway, before making a full trench (ish) system, I decided to do 3 peices as a prototype. Its a good thing too, because so far the whole thing has been littered with mistakes and regrets. Hopefully the 3 I am doing now turn out slightly good, so that the rest can be much better.

I started out cutting the masonite bases 4″ by 4″. I only beveled 1 edge (1st mistake). Using some basswood rods (I think 3/16″) and popsicle sticks, I made my trench walls. Hot glue attached them together.

Next I mixed up my paper mache. Now, in an effort to not repeat my previous mistake, I made another mistake. I did not drain enough water from the last batch of paper mache, and it was way too wet and unruly. This time, I drained almost all of the water from the paper mache. The result? It was very difficult to work with. As it is drying, I question its durability.

After applying the paper mache to the base, it looks mediocre. I am hoping it looks better after drying. The last bit I made didn’t look all that great until after it was sanded either. Here you can see how they work together to create a nice system

I am going to try and not include too many minor details here. My process hasn’t really changed from my previous terrain articles. Once the mache dries, I coat will kitty litter and sand for texture. I did do something new here. After the sand dried, I applied another layer of glue ontop of the terrain for added durability. The extra strenght was really apparent in the final product.

Next was my standard paint job:

Finally, I add the static grass and consider it done.

These are actually alot of fun to do and use. I may make another tutorial covering making corner pieces or bends for the trenches. Another great learning experience for me. Now that the prototypes are done, I can start mass producing. Oh, I almost forgot the bottom line (I am cheap, remember?). Given that I found a cheap piece of masonite, I can make roughly 20 of these pieces for $10; maybe a little less depending on glue prices. Thanks for reading!

So, after spending a few days and making my first pieces of paper mache terrain (the post can be found here), I figured I would write down some notes about the process.

What I would do differently:

  1. This is number one and single handedly the most important: make sure you drain the excess water from your paper pulp before adding glue. This changed the entire project for me. It caused slow dry times, warping, and excessive shrinking.
  2. After the glue / sand / rock layer dried, I should have re-coated the entire piece in another layer of water / glue. This would have added strength to the sand and rock that was there. What happened in my project is that certain rocks weren’t held tightly, and after painting, they came off and left unpainted spots. Another glue layer would have helped hold everything firm.
  3. The first layer of c0lor I painted (the dark brown) was put on over the black too sparingly. It made the base too dark. The result was that the whole piece was very dark, and if I added more highlight to it to brighten it, there was a stark contrast.
  4. In the future I will be more careful (aka, stingy) with the static grass. Too much of the stuff just does not look right, and it took my “woodland” piece from being my favorite, to my least liked instantly.
  5. I wish I would have built bigger. Considering how much everything shrank (probably because of #1), the finish product wasn’t big enough to be affective to scale.

What worked for me:

  1. I very much enjoyed my color choices, and while bare they looked odd, once I added the grass they really popped.
  2. Paper mache is cheap and very durable, I will definitely use it as a sculpting medium again.
  3. The pieces are very modular while also matching. They would look good alone, or with each other.

All in all, the project provided for a great learning experience. I can’t wait to make some more terrain and share it here.

(To jump straight to the “What I Learned” section, click here)

I have recently started wanting to play more games at home (babies will do that). Not wanting to spend $40-$60 on a play mat, I (being cheap) just bought a big piece of green felt. If you buy a sheet slightly larger than 4′ x 4′, you can fold over the edges and stitch them in place. It makes for a very nice mat (for felt anyway). Terrain, however, is a different story. I bought some felt for rivers, forests, roads, etc, but it just felt a little too cheap (strange coming from my mouth). So I set out to make some nice terrain that wouldn’t break my (very small) bank. After reading several tutorials around the web, especially http://www.terrainthralls.com/, I started making my plans.

My first step was to provide something very sturdy for my terrain to sit on. I had some MDF lying around from when my wife relayed our kitchen floor (I know, how lucky am I? I mean, having some extra board…oh, and the wife thing too). I set my jigsaw to cut at a 45 degree angle and set out to make some amorphous shapes. All pics are with my cell phone.

Once I sanded off any rough edges, it was time to build up some actual terrain for my terrain pieces. At this point, you have a ton of options. You can use clay, putty, rocks, foam core, or my choice paper mache. I chose paper mache because of its ease of use and relative cheapness. I had an egg carton in the fridge with only 1 egg in it (yoink!) and I have some Elmer’s glue (double yoink!) and I had everything I needed to make my mache. Recipes I found online told me to tear the egg carton into confetti (I only used the top half and had more than enough) and soak it in water over night (or a few hours). When I came back, the paper was like soggy Wheaties. I shredded it a bit more and then put it in the blender with more water (check with your wife first… learn from my mistakes). Only blend it for a few seconds. When I lifted the lid off, the mixture was so thin I thought I had obliterated the paper so bad that there was nothing left to make paper mache with. Luckily I waited a few minutes before dumping it. As the paper separated form the water, it became the perfect consistency. After straining it out, it looked something like this:

Notice the water in the bottom of the bowl? Be sure to strain it all out. The recipe told me to remove excess water, but of course I thought I knew better than the recipe. So now I am on day 2 waiting for this damn stuff to dry. Learn from my mistakes and squeeze out excess water. At this point, I mixed in a bunch of glue. I can’t tell you how much. Basically, I took the lid of the bottle and added some glue, then mixed it around. Repeat until consistency you desire. My general rule of thumb is “You can’t have too much glue.” I began adding the paste/pulp to my MDF and it built up really nicely.

The first piece I did was a “forest/natural” piece. I will later add a few trees and brush. You can see, I added a little hill and some nice natural curves.

Next was a trench piece. Mostly just a wall of “dirt” or maybe sandbags if I feel like sculpting more when this dries.

Finally, I wanted to make a blast crater. As you can see, the middle is rather bare and then blast “marks” are fanning out. The center of this will be painted black that fades into normal soil colors.

All three

After 2 days of waiting for it to dry, I got a little impatient and threw them into the oven. Set the temperature to 200, and then turned it off before putting the terrain in. I cooked them 3 times. Afterwards, the one piece was still a little wet, but oh well. I have noted 2 things that I will do better next time. The first is to definitely remove the excess water (am I stressing it enough?) and the second is to compact it more as I am sculpting it. I loosely put it on the board. The result of the above 2 things is that my mache terrain shrunk while drying and deformed a little. It is also a bit spongy now. Luckily, none of that is too bad and I can continue with this project. The next thing I did, when it was mostly dry, was to water down some Elmer’s glue and coat the entire terrain piece (board and all). Once coated, I sprinkled some kitty litter for rocks and sand for general texture. Let dry completely before continuing.

After everything dried, I put some paint down. I started with a base coat of black. This gives it some nice shadows. The next coat is a dry brushing of “Traditional Burnt Umber”. Drybrush very thickly, as it is a dark brown color to begin with. Next I did a light drybrushing of “Cinnamon Brown”. Finally, I did a very light drybrushing of “Amish Grey” on the smal stones only (All of the colors were from the cheap $1 bottles of Acrylic found at craft stores).

OK, after all of the paint dried it was time to add some static grass and call it done. For my trench, I wanted it to look like the earth was shoveled up, so there would be clumps of grass on the trench top itself.

For the crater, I tried to make the inside black, so it would look charred. I added some grass inside the crater and then brushed it black to look like burnt grass. In my opinion, it came out so-so. It is a technique I will have to work on to get better.

The last bit is my “woodland” piece. I have to be honest and say I don’t like this one at all, even though it started out as my favorite. It had unfavorable shrinking when it was drying, no direction, and a crazy amount of “over-grassing”. In the end, it just looks….eh to me.

All in all, I feel that this was a very successful first attempt at better terrain building (on the cheap). I will definitely be doing more projects to hone my skills and get more tutorials out there.

Later today (or tomorrow) I will be making a new blog post regarding what I learned during this process. Hopefully it will help me organize my notes and allow people to learn from my initial mistakes. Look for the link here when it is up.

I have been looking for a great way to make custom tokens for my Warmachine / Hordes armies for a while now. I have seen the GF9 Warcogs and Warclaws, and while the are very nice, they are a tad bit expensive and you are stuck with the design they give you. Not to be forced into buying anything less than exactly what I want, I decided to make my own. After seeing a post on the Privateer Press forums, I began looking around for tips on using Skrinky Dinks paper to make what I want. The paper itself (which I picked up at a local craft store) was $9.97 for 6 sheets. Be careful to buy the Shrinky Dink paper made specifically for a printer. Buying sheets of the non-printer ready stuff won’t work. Warcogs come in a pack of 26 for $11.99. So far, using 3 sheets, I was able to make close to 50 tokens. Here is how I did it:

1) Make your design on the computer. Somethings to keep in mind: Use much lighter colors than you want your final product to be. When the tokens shrink, they get about 5 shades darker. I designed the template I wanted and then added a +150% brightness layer. The end result still came out a little darker than I wanted. Also, be careful which shapes you use. During the shrinking process, the tokens will warp a little bit. This isn’t so bad if you use straight-lined shapes like squares, but circles become ovals. I decided to use circles anyway because I thought the ovals looked cool. Last thing, the tokens will shrink to about half of their current size. I made my tokens 2″ by 2″ and my fury 1.5″ by 1.5″. They came out a reasonable size for my tastes.

2) print out a sheet of your tokens onto the special Skrinky dink paper.

3) Cut out the tokens and place them on a cookie sheet. The cookie sheet has to be covered in wax paper, vellum, or parchment. Do not use foil and do not place the plastic directly on metal or else they will burn. Heat the oven to between 300 and 350 degrees and slide the cookie sheet in. It takes about 45 seconds for the token to begin to shrink. Once they have settled back down (though some may stay curved) go ahead and take the tokens out of the oven.

4) Quickly, using a spatula or other flat apparatus, press down on the tokens to flatten them out and prevent them from curling back up. Hold them for about 30 seconds. When you lift the spatula, you should have flat, hardened tokens. Shown below are my Legion of Everblight ”blue” tokens and my Retribution of Scyrah “Bloody” tokens.

5) Now you can add any final touches. These tokens are virtually indestructible (my wife stabbed one with a knife to no avail), ut if you want you can add a gloss coat to them. The gloss coat further protects them from damage (unlikely) and gives them an ever-so-slight sheen. Nothing major, barely noticeable. Otherwise, you can get some adhering felt and line the bottom of your tokens with it. It does tend to double their thickness, but it makes then feel very smooth. Be sure to cut it precisely, or else it will look sloppy and ruin the effect.

And that’s it! Everything you need to make your own custom, awesome tokens. For added effect, print out and laminate a “legend” card so you can mark down what each token represents from one game to another. Also, unless you really want to have a ton of these things, I wouldn’t make tokens with an effects name on it. I thought about doing that, but then considered the sheer number of different effects available to an army, multiplied by the number of times they can be applied. That makes for a lot of tokens, which is why I used symbols. Anyway, enjoy!

I have been trying to make my paint set more mobile recently. Figure I may be more motivated to paint if I can do it easily in other rooms of the house or at my LGS. Carrying the paints is easy, simply put them in a box. The paint brushes, however, proved to be more of a challenge. The problem is that I don’t care to damage the bristles of some of my more expensive brushes by just throwing them into a box. I know there are professional products to help me with this very product, so I went to my local hobby store to buy one. Turns out, they are $15! My personal policy is to never spend more than $10 on something that could not kill a person at an accelerated velocity, so spending %15 on a paint brush holder was right out the window. After taking a look around the house, I managed to make one 10x better than the one at the store… and here’s how!

Start with a couple of plastic cylinders. Any will probably do. You could also do this with think narrow boxes I would assume. I used crystal light containers (note: you could always go and buy to containers of crystal light for $1 each. Then you could enjoy a delicious beverage while doing this tutorial).

Brush Holder

Next, strip off the label and cut the cylinders. I used a hacksaw to cut mine and it went through pretty straight and smooth. You will need to cute 3 pieces from the 2 cylinders: a short one, a slightly longer one, and a coupler.

Brush Holder 2

Cut the coupler length wise one time so that it looks like a “C”

Brush Holder 3

Next, grab your foam! If you followed my tray tutorial, then you should have some scrap foam lying around. I used 4″ thick foam. In this case, I used a piece of foam slightly bigger than the cylinder. That way, the foam in condensed in and will make a tight fit.

Brush Holder 4

Grab your razor and your foam and go for the “slice and dice”. Be sure not to cut all of the way through the foam. You want all of your strands still connected at the bottom. Note: Be careful not to cut your fingers, also, if the fit is too tight in the cylinder, remove some excess strands.

Brush Holder 5

Place the foam in to the cylinder and test it out with your brushes. Make sure they fit tight and don’t move around. We don’t want to damage those bristles during transport.

Brush Holder 6

Now that we know everything fits, it is time to make a lid. Using the coupler we made ealier, attach it to the top of the cylinder so that 25% is attached and 75% is above the bottom cylinder. Normally, I would suggest using a rubber cement or other strong bonding glue. It looks nice and forms a tight bond. In my case, I wanted to get this done quickly so Duct Tape it is!!

Brush Holder 7

Now place the brushes back inside and try the top. It should stay on very well and form and almost air tight seal. In my case, I could toss, drop, or shake the container and the brushes stayed put and the lid didn’t even come close to budging.

Brush Holder 8

Brush Holder 9

There you have it. Not the prettiest thing in the world, but I built it for free and it took me about 15 minutes. I can probably trim the top down a bit so that it isn’t so tall, but for tonight, it does the trick.

Enjoy everyone.