I made a Haiku
For you, so you would know that
Legion is awesome
Archive for the ‘Hordes’ Category
I made a Haiku
So, with the advent of a child, I have been trying to play at home more often. This, of course, is much more difficult when I cannot find a 4′ by 4′ table anywhere in the house. After thinking through all of my options (folding tables, caps for my current tables, etc) I decided the easiest (and cheapest) solution would be to just build a solid freestanding table. I managed to build one for about $15. The key was finding a cheap, fairly decent 4′ by 4′ board for relatively cheap. I lucked out in that a buddy of mine had one in my garage he was willing to give me. From there, I bought a 2″x4″16′ and two 2″x4″x8′ boards. I cut them like this:
2 – 48″
2 – 45″
4 – 36″
The 48″ and 45″ boards made the 4′ by 4′ frame and the 36″ where the legs. $10 spent on wood.
Before attaching the table top, I picked up a piece of 5′ by 5′ green fleece for about $5 at Jo-Ann Fabrics. I sprayed the board with a spray adhesive and pulled the fleece tight overtop of it. then I lifted the board and tucked the remainder of the fleece underneath. Finally, using a razor, I cut slits in the corners and sides of the boards. I ran screws down to attach the board and then used glue to hold the slits closed. This creates a rather seemless top:
And thats it. Enjoy!
I have been looking for a great way to make custom tokens for my Warmachine / Hordes armies for a while now. I have seen the GF9 Warcogs and Warclaws, and while the are very nice, they are a tad bit expensive and you are stuck with the design they give you. Not to be forced into buying anything less than exactly what I want, I decided to make my own. After seeing a post on the Privateer Press forums, I began looking around for tips on using Skrinky Dinks paper to make what I want. The paper itself (which I picked up at a local craft store) was $9.97 for 6 sheets. Be careful to buy the Shrinky Dink paper made specifically for a printer. Buying sheets of the non-printer ready stuff won’t work. Warcogs come in a pack of 26 for $11.99. So far, using 3 sheets, I was able to make close to 50 tokens. Here is how I did it:
1) Make your design on the computer. Somethings to keep in mind: Use much lighter colors than you want your final product to be. When the tokens shrink, they get about 5 shades darker. I designed the template I wanted and then added a +150% brightness layer. The end result still came out a little darker than I wanted. Also, be careful which shapes you use. During the shrinking process, the tokens will warp a little bit. This isn’t so bad if you use straight-lined shapes like squares, but circles become ovals. I decided to use circles anyway because I thought the ovals looked cool. Last thing, the tokens will shrink to about half of their current size. I made my tokens 2″ by 2″ and my fury 1.5″ by 1.5″. They came out a reasonable size for my tastes.
2) print out a sheet of your tokens onto the special Skrinky dink paper.
3) Cut out the tokens and place them on a cookie sheet. The cookie sheet has to be covered in wax paper, vellum, or parchment. Do not use foil and do not place the plastic directly on metal or else they will burn. Heat the oven to between 300 and 350 degrees and slide the cookie sheet in. It takes about 45 seconds for the token to begin to shrink. Once they have settled back down (though some may stay curved) go ahead and take the tokens out of the oven.
4) Quickly, using a spatula or other flat apparatus, press down on the tokens to flatten them out and prevent them from curling back up. Hold them for about 30 seconds. When you lift the spatula, you should have flat, hardened tokens. Shown below are my Legion of Everblight ”blue” tokens and my Retribution of Scyrah “Bloody” tokens.
5) Now you can add any final touches. These tokens are virtually indestructible (my wife stabbed one with a knife to no avail), ut if you want you can add a gloss coat to them. The gloss coat further protects them from damage (unlikely) and gives them an ever-so-slight sheen. Nothing major, barely noticeable. Otherwise, you can get some adhering felt and line the bottom of your tokens with it. It does tend to double their thickness, but it makes then feel very smooth. Be sure to cut it precisely, or else it will look sloppy and ruin the effect.
And that’s it! Everything you need to make your own custom, awesome tokens. For added effect, print out and laminate a “legend” card so you can mark down what each token represents from one game to another. Also, unless you really want to have a ton of these things, I wouldn’t make tokens with an effects name on it. I thought about doing that, but then considered the sheer number of different effects available to an army, multiplied by the number of times they can be applied. That makes for a lot of tokens, which is why I used symbols. Anyway, enjoy!
Well, I finally finished Rhyas. I think I did a good job on her, but one thing that is apparent is that without a tripod, I suck at taking pictures. I may retake them at a later date, but for now, these will do. I have attempted to adhere closely to the studio paint scheme because I really like it, though I do have troubles with the cloth coloring.
I figured I would take the time to post the pictures of my painted Legions models. Hopefully, having some online images (and hopefully some motivational comments) I will pick up the pace and get the rest of my army painted. I have a long way to go. I currently have about 2,000 points of legion and only these few models painted. It’s going to be a long road.
Thagrosh was my attempt to do an “awesome” and “gaunt” shading. About halfway through I got impatient though and rushed to get him finished. I see him as both being really kewl and also as a serious loss of potential
Of course, Thagrosh the Pimp would be nothign without his “hoes”, so next is Lylyth and Saeryn. Two more quick jobs on my part. Noth sure if you can see it in the picture, but I gave Lylyth a hot pink shirt with a purple heart on it.
Now personally, I believe the Nephilim Soldier (Roger) is the best paint job I have done to date. It might be because it was so simple and I didn’t have a chance to get bored with it and rush something. You will notice that my Nephilim Soldier is named Roger. That is something I started doing with my “non-characters”. I started by labeling my shredders with numbers from 1 to 8. I decided that it kind of sucked for things like my two Carniveans, however, so I decided to name my beasts instead. My wife got to name my Nephilim, and thus Roger the Nephilim Soldier was born. I currently have 2 half painted Carniveans named Klaus and Panzer…
Finally, what Legion army would be complete without a Shephard, Forsaken, and a ton-o-Shredders?
Coming up soon (hopefully) will be Typhon, a couple of carniveans, and eThagrosh. We will see how long that take me
With all of the new Grind excitement, I decided I wanted to try and make a grind ball. Now I know a ball will come with the game, but I figured in the meantime it would provide something fun to do. I knew the ball had to be metal and spikey, but besides that, I wasn’t really sure what I wanted, so I hit the internet. After a bit of searching, I found this page. This had pretty much what I wanted, ranted it was in german and I don’t speak german. Go Go Google Translate! Anyway, I made one just like the german guide showed (and subsequently didn’t take pictures of it because I forgot my camera) and took it to my LGS for some fun. Someone there mentioned how awesome they would be as mines and objectives in games too, so I set out to make 5 more of them. This time, however, I was going to do it even cheaper than my first one. To make it less expensive, substitute toothpicks for spears, leave out the snaps (they were the most expensive part of the whole project), and use cheap flat black paint instead of primer. Here is my step by step:
This is everything you need: A 3″ foam ball, some cardstock (cut into strips), White glue, toothpics, a balsa wood base, and paint (not shown)
Next you glue the strips around the ball is a completely random, haphazard fashion
After that, cut your toothpicks in half and start sticking them in
Finally, spray paint it black and dry brush it metal. This is the step you will spend the most time on (or the least time if it really doesn’t matter what it looks like). For my, I tend to build up layers and add rust and blood effects, but for now, here is the image with just a Pig Iron base
And there you go. The original way (with the spears and snaps) really wasn’t that expensive, but if you want to even shave off the last couple of bucks, this is how to do it. I have seen them used a couple of different ways now:
- Grind Balls
- Objectives (that randomnly detonate on a roll of 1)