Archive for the ‘Tutorials’ Category

Hello again everyone. As promised, here is my guide on magnetizing the Furioso Dreadnought from the Space Marines: Blood Angels Codex. The furioso is a titan on the battlefield and I have had great success. The problem is that the kit comes with so many goodies, it is impossible to choose a layout. Therefore: this guide. In many sections of this article I use something called core steel. Core steel is specifically engineered for its magnetic properties. It is also hard to find. With that in mind, anywhere I use core steel, you can use plasticard and a magnet. It will work the same. If you are interested in acquiring some core steel, send me a message. I magnetized 3 parts of the dreadnought which I will show you. I have not magnetized (or even attached yet) the under arm guns. I am playing with the idea of not magnetizing them as I always take the default loadout. If I do decide to magnetize them, I will do a second post on it (it looks easy enough anyway, just 4 1/16 magnets). Anyway, here goes:

Torso

When building your dreadnought (from now one, simply DN),be sure to put two 1/8″ magnets on the top piece (underside) near the back. That will be for the magna grapple later. When placing them, try to match it to the divets on the magna grapple. When building the torso do not glue the face plate on. Be sure to put the faceplate in place so the body glues together correctly, but be sure you can remove the faceplate afterwards.Once the torso “box” is dried, I glued a strip of core steel across the front (this will be for the face plates). You can sub in a piece of plasticard with 1/8″ magnets instead).

Looking in the picture above, you can make out the magnets in the back for the magna grapple. Sorry they are so hard to see. I put this together and then decided to take pictures. This is all the modification we need to make to the torso.

Faceplates

The faceplates are super easy. I just put two 1/8″ magnets on the backside of the faceplates that lined up with the core steel band, and done!

Now your DN can have any of the three faceplates at any time.

Magna Grapple

Another easy job here. Since we already have the magnets inside, we just need to match the polarity and attach magnets to the grapple.

The magna grapple already comes with 2 divets in it, and it makes the perfect place to put the magnets. You may need to drill a little bit, but not too deep. After that, the piece just snaps on all perfect and such. Notice how those sneaky people at GW made it so that the magna grapple wouldn’t fit on when the librarian faceplate was on. Clever.

Arms

Interestingly, the arms go on and off just fine without magnets, so that makes it easy. If yours do not fit on, then you just need to glue 1/8″ magnets inside the arm (sticky tack is your friend here, just sticky a magnet to the end of a thin tool and push it into the arm hole) and put a 1/8″ magnet on the arm stub of the torso. Like I said though, I didn’t need to. The librarian arm and the flak cannon are complete without any need to change. When making your “hands” you will notice there aren’t enough “thumbs” to make both “hands”. What I did is just make the close combat weapons with the 4 short fingers and the blood talons with 3 claws (ignoring the extra slot). It isn’t perfect, but it doesn’t incur any more cost. Then, if you notice, the hands and hole are the perfect dimensions of 1/4″ steel washers. Go get some of them (I’ll wait). When you get back, glue them onto the hands. Then, on the arm stubs, glue two 1/6″ magnets and watch and the hands snap into place perfectly. Now you can swap them out with ease.

 

And that’s it! Like I said before, I have not made a decision about the under arm guns. If I do add them, it will be in a second article. Enjoy!

Here are some pics of my assembled DNs

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Hello everyone, its been a while. I figured I would come back strong. In case you don’t know (not sure how you found this article then), the Stormraven is the new Blood Angel and Grey Knight flying transport. It has a huge hauling capacity (12 men and a dreadnought) and a crazy amount of firepower. Unless you are very sure of yourself and all of your future endeavors, picking a single load out and gluing into place seems silly. That is why I am going to be showing you how to magnetize the Stormraven for maximum awesomeness. In many sections of this article I use something called core steel. Core steel is specifically engineered for its magnetic properties. It is also hard to find. With that in mind, anywhere I use core steel, you can use plasticard and a magnet. It will work the same. If you are interested in acquiring some core steel, send me a message. There are 4 areas that I customized and I will show them in the order that I did them.

The Wings

I chose to magnetize the wings because I wanted to be able to fit the Stormraven in my foam trays. Gluing the wings into place ensured that I had to make a large, goofy tray to store it. The first thing I did was to drill two .25″ holes on each side of the Stormraven chassis. I drilled straight through. Then, using greenstuff, I made a backing to the holes inside of the body. When it is all said and done, the greenstuff is incredibly difficult the spot (so don’t worry about it making the model look bad).I then glued .25″ magnets into the holes.

Make sure everything is flush before letting it dry. I then put a piece of core steel into the square divot in the wing. This could have also been done with 3-4 1/8″ magnets. Once that dried, the wing stayed on perfectly. The bond was so strong I could turn the SR upside down without the wings moving at all.

After dealing with the wings, there was the air vent to take care of. If you look 2 pictures up, you will see the two 1/8″  magnets I glued to the body of the SR. I then bent some core steel in a n “L” and glued it to the inside of the air vent. This could also have been done with plasticard and another magnet.

Hurricane Bolters

The hurricane bolters weren’t nearly as difficult as I originally assumed. This Video covers it nicely. First, you assemble the hurricane bolters. When they are all together, you cut off the small tabs. Then you line up one of the doors and mark a notch where the top of the door protrudes. Once that is done, everything should fit flush together. Put a magnets on the inside of the door and glue it into place. On the HB, put a piece of core steel or another magnet. If done correctly, the HB should stick to the door and you can chose to leave it on or take it off.

Front Guns

The front guns of the SR can be very tricky. Depending on your kit, you may not even need to magnetize because the pieces will just fit snuggly together. I had a single piece that was loose, so I had to magnetize the whole thing (though it was pretty easy). On the back of the plate that holds the front weapons, I drilled 2 1/8″ holes and glued in 2 1/8″ magnets.

I then trimmed down the pegs on all of the weapons (about halfway) and glued a piece of core steel on the end. You can get by with 1/16″ magnets if you don’t have core steel.

The pieces now fit snug and are easy to switch out.

The Main Turret

The last bit of magnetizing I did. The main turret originally looked challenging. I wanted to retain the articulate of the guns that the rod gave you. Eventually though, I stopped caring and did a basic job on it. I am happy with my decision (and I kept the rod unharmed in case I get any future bright ideas). Assemble the turret body without the rod in it, and you will notice an almost perfect 1/8″ hole. If you guessed that we are going to put a 1/8″ magnet in there, you guessed right. The weapons have a square notch in them. Without assembling the weapons (in case something goes wrong), drill a 1/8″ hole directly over the square notch (don’t go all the way through, the plastic is thick and you shouldn’t have to). Put in a 1/8″ magnet and your done!

And that’s it! You have a kick-ass Stormraven with gobs of potential. Just try not to make people cry too hard. Coming up next, I will show you how to magnetize the Furioso Dreadnought

Eye candy:

So, with the advent of a child, I have been trying to play at home more often. This, of course, is much more difficult when I cannot find a 4′ by 4′ table anywhere in the house. After thinking through all of my options (folding tables, caps for my current tables, etc) I decided the easiest (and cheapest) solution would be to just build a solid freestanding table. I managed to build one for about $15. The key was finding a cheap, fairly decent 4′ by 4′ board for relatively cheap. I lucked out in that a buddy of mine had one in my garage he was willing to give me. From there, I bought a 2″x4″16′ and two 2″x4″x8′ boards. I cut them like this:

2 – 48″
2 – 45″
4 – 36″

The 48″ and 45″ boards made the 4′ by 4′ frame and the 36″ where the legs. $10 spent on wood.

Before attaching the table top, I picked up a piece of 5′ by 5′ green fleece for about $5 at Jo-Ann Fabrics. I sprayed the board with a spray adhesive and pulled the fleece tight overtop of it. then I lifted the board and tucked the remainder of the fleece underneath. Finally, using a razor, I cut slits in the corners and sides of the boards. I ran screws down to attach the board and then used glue to hold the slits closed. This creates a rather seemless top:

And thats it. Enjoy!

So as a follow up experiment with paper mache, I have decided to make a trench system. Actually, its not so much a trench system as a modular fortification system. I say this because the walls only go up to a trooper waist (so line of sight can be drawn in both Warmachine and Warhammer). Anyway, before making a full trench (ish) system, I decided to do 3 peices as a prototype. Its a good thing too, because so far the whole thing has been littered with mistakes and regrets. Hopefully the 3 I am doing now turn out slightly good, so that the rest can be much better.

I started out cutting the masonite bases 4″ by 4″. I only beveled 1 edge (1st mistake). Using some basswood rods (I think 3/16″) and popsicle sticks, I made my trench walls. Hot glue attached them together.

Next I mixed up my paper mache. Now, in an effort to not repeat my previous mistake, I made another mistake. I did not drain enough water from the last batch of paper mache, and it was way too wet and unruly. This time, I drained almost all of the water from the paper mache. The result? It was very difficult to work with. As it is drying, I question its durability.

After applying the paper mache to the base, it looks mediocre. I am hoping it looks better after drying. The last bit I made didn’t look all that great until after it was sanded either. Here you can see how they work together to create a nice system

I am going to try and not include too many minor details here. My process hasn’t really changed from my previous terrain articles. Once the mache dries, I coat will kitty litter and sand for texture. I did do something new here. After the sand dried, I applied another layer of glue ontop of the terrain for added durability. The extra strenght was really apparent in the final product.

Next was my standard paint job:

Finally, I add the static grass and consider it done.

These are actually alot of fun to do and use. I may make another tutorial covering making corner pieces or bends for the trenches. Another great learning experience for me. Now that the prototypes are done, I can start mass producing. Oh, I almost forgot the bottom line (I am cheap, remember?). Given that I found a cheap piece of masonite, I can make roughly 20 of these pieces for $10; maybe a little less depending on glue prices. Thanks for reading!

So, after spending a few days and making my first pieces of paper mache terrain (the post can be found here), I figured I would write down some notes about the process.

What I would do differently:

  1. This is number one and single handedly the most important: make sure you drain the excess water from your paper pulp before adding glue. This changed the entire project for me. It caused slow dry times, warping, and excessive shrinking.
  2. After the glue / sand / rock layer dried, I should have re-coated the entire piece in another layer of water / glue. This would have added strength to the sand and rock that was there. What happened in my project is that certain rocks weren’t held tightly, and after painting, they came off and left unpainted spots. Another glue layer would have helped hold everything firm.
  3. The first layer of c0lor I painted (the dark brown) was put on over the black too sparingly. It made the base too dark. The result was that the whole piece was very dark, and if I added more highlight to it to brighten it, there was a stark contrast.
  4. In the future I will be more careful (aka, stingy) with the static grass. Too much of the stuff just does not look right, and it took my “woodland” piece from being my favorite, to my least liked instantly.
  5. I wish I would have built bigger. Considering how much everything shrank (probably because of #1), the finish product wasn’t big enough to be affective to scale.

What worked for me:

  1. I very much enjoyed my color choices, and while bare they looked odd, once I added the grass they really popped.
  2. Paper mache is cheap and very durable, I will definitely use it as a sculpting medium again.
  3. The pieces are very modular while also matching. They would look good alone, or with each other.

All in all, the project provided for a great learning experience. I can’t wait to make some more terrain and share it here.

(To jump straight to the “What I Learned” section, click here)

I have recently started wanting to play more games at home (babies will do that). Not wanting to spend $40-$60 on a play mat, I (being cheap) just bought a big piece of green felt. If you buy a sheet slightly larger than 4′ x 4′, you can fold over the edges and stitch them in place. It makes for a very nice mat (for felt anyway). Terrain, however, is a different story. I bought some felt for rivers, forests, roads, etc, but it just felt a little too cheap (strange coming from my mouth). So I set out to make some nice terrain that wouldn’t break my (very small) bank. After reading several tutorials around the web, especially http://www.terrainthralls.com/, I started making my plans.

My first step was to provide something very sturdy for my terrain to sit on. I had some MDF lying around from when my wife relayed our kitchen floor (I know, how lucky am I? I mean, having some extra board…oh, and the wife thing too). I set my jigsaw to cut at a 45 degree angle and set out to make some amorphous shapes. All pics are with my cell phone.

Once I sanded off any rough edges, it was time to build up some actual terrain for my terrain pieces. At this point, you have a ton of options. You can use clay, putty, rocks, foam core, or my choice paper mache. I chose paper mache because of its ease of use and relative cheapness. I had an egg carton in the fridge with only 1 egg in it (yoink!) and I have some Elmer’s glue (double yoink!) and I had everything I needed to make my mache. Recipes I found online told me to tear the egg carton into confetti (I only used the top half and had more than enough) and soak it in water over night (or a few hours). When I came back, the paper was like soggy Wheaties. I shredded it a bit more and then put it in the blender with more water (check with your wife first… learn from my mistakes). Only blend it for a few seconds. When I lifted the lid off, the mixture was so thin I thought I had obliterated the paper so bad that there was nothing left to make paper mache with. Luckily I waited a few minutes before dumping it. As the paper separated form the water, it became the perfect consistency. After straining it out, it looked something like this:

Notice the water in the bottom of the bowl? Be sure to strain it all out. The recipe told me to remove excess water, but of course I thought I knew better than the recipe. So now I am on day 2 waiting for this damn stuff to dry. Learn from my mistakes and squeeze out excess water. At this point, I mixed in a bunch of glue. I can’t tell you how much. Basically, I took the lid of the bottle and added some glue, then mixed it around. Repeat until consistency you desire. My general rule of thumb is “You can’t have too much glue.” I began adding the paste/pulp to my MDF and it built up really nicely.

The first piece I did was a “forest/natural” piece. I will later add a few trees and brush. You can see, I added a little hill and some nice natural curves.

Next was a trench piece. Mostly just a wall of “dirt” or maybe sandbags if I feel like sculpting more when this dries.

Finally, I wanted to make a blast crater. As you can see, the middle is rather bare and then blast “marks” are fanning out. The center of this will be painted black that fades into normal soil colors.

All three

After 2 days of waiting for it to dry, I got a little impatient and threw them into the oven. Set the temperature to 200, and then turned it off before putting the terrain in. I cooked them 3 times. Afterwards, the one piece was still a little wet, but oh well. I have noted 2 things that I will do better next time. The first is to definitely remove the excess water (am I stressing it enough?) and the second is to compact it more as I am sculpting it. I loosely put it on the board. The result of the above 2 things is that my mache terrain shrunk while drying and deformed a little. It is also a bit spongy now. Luckily, none of that is too bad and I can continue with this project. The next thing I did, when it was mostly dry, was to water down some Elmer’s glue and coat the entire terrain piece (board and all). Once coated, I sprinkled some kitty litter for rocks and sand for general texture. Let dry completely before continuing.

After everything dried, I put some paint down. I started with a base coat of black. This gives it some nice shadows. The next coat is a dry brushing of “Traditional Burnt Umber”. Drybrush very thickly, as it is a dark brown color to begin with. Next I did a light drybrushing of “Cinnamon Brown”. Finally, I did a very light drybrushing of “Amish Grey” on the smal stones only (All of the colors were from the cheap $1 bottles of Acrylic found at craft stores).

OK, after all of the paint dried it was time to add some static grass and call it done. For my trench, I wanted it to look like the earth was shoveled up, so there would be clumps of grass on the trench top itself.

For the crater, I tried to make the inside black, so it would look charred. I added some grass inside the crater and then brushed it black to look like burnt grass. In my opinion, it came out so-so. It is a technique I will have to work on to get better.

The last bit is my “woodland” piece. I have to be honest and say I don’t like this one at all, even though it started out as my favorite. It had unfavorable shrinking when it was drying, no direction, and a crazy amount of “over-grassing”. In the end, it just looks….eh to me.

All in all, I feel that this was a very successful first attempt at better terrain building (on the cheap). I will definitely be doing more projects to hone my skills and get more tutorials out there.

Later today (or tomorrow) I will be making a new blog post regarding what I learned during this process. Hopefully it will help me organize my notes and allow people to learn from my initial mistakes. Look for the link here when it is up.

I have been looking for a great way to make custom tokens for my Warmachine / Hordes armies for a while now. I have seen the GF9 Warcogs and Warclaws, and while the are very nice, they are a tad bit expensive and you are stuck with the design they give you. Not to be forced into buying anything less than exactly what I want, I decided to make my own. After seeing a post on the Privateer Press forums, I began looking around for tips on using Skrinky Dinks paper to make what I want. The paper itself (which I picked up at a local craft store) was $9.97 for 6 sheets. Be careful to buy the Shrinky Dink paper made specifically for a printer. Buying sheets of the non-printer ready stuff won’t work. Warcogs come in a pack of 26 for $11.99. So far, using 3 sheets, I was able to make close to 50 tokens. Here is how I did it:

1) Make your design on the computer. Somethings to keep in mind: Use much lighter colors than you want your final product to be. When the tokens shrink, they get about 5 shades darker. I designed the template I wanted and then added a +150% brightness layer. The end result still came out a little darker than I wanted. Also, be careful which shapes you use. During the shrinking process, the tokens will warp a little bit. This isn’t so bad if you use straight-lined shapes like squares, but circles become ovals. I decided to use circles anyway because I thought the ovals looked cool. Last thing, the tokens will shrink to about half of their current size. I made my tokens 2″ by 2″ and my fury 1.5″ by 1.5″. They came out a reasonable size for my tastes.

2) print out a sheet of your tokens onto the special Skrinky dink paper.

3) Cut out the tokens and place them on a cookie sheet. The cookie sheet has to be covered in wax paper, vellum, or parchment. Do not use foil and do not place the plastic directly on metal or else they will burn. Heat the oven to between 300 and 350 degrees and slide the cookie sheet in. It takes about 45 seconds for the token to begin to shrink. Once they have settled back down (though some may stay curved) go ahead and take the tokens out of the oven.

4) Quickly, using a spatula or other flat apparatus, press down on the tokens to flatten them out and prevent them from curling back up. Hold them for about 30 seconds. When you lift the spatula, you should have flat, hardened tokens. Shown below are my Legion of Everblight ”blue” tokens and my Retribution of Scyrah “Bloody” tokens.

5) Now you can add any final touches. These tokens are virtually indestructible (my wife stabbed one with a knife to no avail), ut if you want you can add a gloss coat to them. The gloss coat further protects them from damage (unlikely) and gives them an ever-so-slight sheen. Nothing major, barely noticeable. Otherwise, you can get some adhering felt and line the bottom of your tokens with it. It does tend to double their thickness, but it makes then feel very smooth. Be sure to cut it precisely, or else it will look sloppy and ruin the effect.

And that’s it! Everything you need to make your own custom, awesome tokens. For added effect, print out and laminate a “legend” card so you can mark down what each token represents from one game to another. Also, unless you really want to have a ton of these things, I wouldn’t make tokens with an effects name on it. I thought about doing that, but then considered the sheer number of different effects available to an army, multiplied by the number of times they can be applied. That makes for a lot of tokens, which is why I used symbols. Anyway, enjoy!